Arcade Auctions 1

Auction Prices

Prices will vary according to weather, number of games, time of day.

• Atlanta 02-25-06

Arcade Auctions: Useful Information

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By Mario D'Alessio (dalessio@motorola.com) Version 3.8 - Last Updated April 27, 2001 Updated and altered by MYX July 2006

NOTE: The information presented here was gathered from attending arcade auctions in the Chicago, IL and Indianapolis, IN areas. These auctions were run by US Amusements and Super Auctions. This info may not apply to auctions at other locations or those run by other auction companies.

• You do not need to register before the auction for permission to

attend the event. Just show up. There is no cost to attend.

• At most arcade auctions, you'll find more than just video games

and pinball machines. You can find all kinds of redemption equipment (money-making items such as kiddie rides, claw machines, etc.), coin-operated pool tables, dart machines, air hockey games, jukebox machines, popcorn makers, soda machines, parts (locks, marquees, circuit boards, controllers, buttons, etc.), and anything else sellers want to sell. Items I have seen auctioned include slot racers and 12' racing tracks, condom machines, boom boxes, golf clubs, and pay telephones. The items you'll see the most of are video games, pinball machines, and jukeboxes.

In some states, slot machines can be auctioned. You will need to check your state's laws to find out if they can be purchased. In Illinois, slot machines have been auctioned, but these were japanese machines in which the player must hit a button for each slot wheel to stop them. As such, the machines are a game of skill rather than chance and are therefore not illegal. However, in many states it is illegal to transport ANY type of slot machine. Do your homework or buy at your own risk.

• You will usually find a mix of older games and newer games. Prices

vary greatly. If you want to get a general idea of prices, see the links listed at the botom of this page for lists of recient auctions and prices. However, the chances that they will be the same at the next auction are minimal. I've seen two machines (same game, similar condition) differ by over $100 at the same auction. Anything goes. In general, older games cost less except for the classics which are highly desirable. Videogames with 25" monitors usually tend to be higher priced. Large sit-down games such as racing games tend to be very high priced (relative to other items), but may still be a bargain. Also, as the auction progresses, the crowd thins out and the auctioneer gets tired, resulting is shorter bid cycles and lower prices. But again, anything goes.

• Besides money, the most important (and often neglected) item to bring to the auction is proper transportation for hauling your

purchased items. Make sure you have a vehicle which can handle the items you are planning on buying. Always try to account for more room than you think you really need; not only for a safety margin, but also for those unexpected deals that pop up. Be sure to bring a tape measure and make sure you measure your vehicle's dimensions. You don't want to purchase a game only to find out later that it won't fit in your vehicle. Games usually have to be out of the place by a certain time the same day, and then you'll be stuck. Be sure to check out every game you are interested in purchasing during the preview period (see below for more info on preview periods).

If renting a vehicle, be sure to check out cost and conditions for milage, out-of-state transport, one-way use, etc. (This section may be expanded as more info is gathered)

• At many auctions, some operators will offer to transport games in the general vicinity of the auction for a fee. The auction company

often makes an announcement before the start of the auction to notify people of anyone offering this service. If you decide to go this route, be sure to get all details ahead of time (cost, insurance, what if they break an item, etc.). The auction company has no part to play in this; they just announce the names of those offering this service. Use at your own risk. (I have had a bad experience with the delivery people not really taking care with the items being transported. In fact, we hired them to deliver a garage full of games. They grabbed all the wrong places and jerked and thumped and whacked the machines in every way they do not want to be. When they put the machines on the back gate of the truck, they dropped the gate so hard I swore pieces should have fallen off. Also, not all the pieces of the air hockey table we bought showed up. They said that they would go back and look for the parts then bring them back, but that never happened.

• Always try to attend with at least one other person so that they can help you move your purchased items. The items may be big and

difficult for one person to move. Bring a dolly, and make sure it's strong enough to handle the weight of the machines.

Videogames are very top-heavy and tip easily. If you are moving one with a dolly, be sure to keep it level unless you have someone holding it upright. Let's stress this again: VIDEOGAMES TIP EASILY!

Pinball machines are difficult to move. You most likely will not be able to use a dolly with them. If you're lucky, you may be able to borrow a pinball machine mover; otherwise, you'll end up carrying it to your vehicle, and they are HEAVY! Did I mention... Bring a friend!!!

• Be prepared to spend a lot of time at the auction. If you are waiting to bid on a certain machine, it could take hours for the auctioneer to reach it (and you may have to sit through the auctioning of all that redemption stuff mentioned above).

• Bring something to eat and drink. They may not have food there, and then you'll have to leave to get something and possibly miss an

item you want. If food is sold, the quality of the food is usually not very good. The auction could last most of the day, plus you'll spend time loading your games. So, you may want to bring two meals and a cooler for drinks.

• You must register to bid. This is done at the event. Make sure you do this as early as possible so you don't miss anything you'd

want. The lines can be long. You'll need to either put down a huge money deposit, or leave them your driver's license. If you travel with someone, have the person not driving leave the license and share the bidding number. This is most important if you have a rental vehicle and only one person can drive it.

• Ask about the payment options. Checks are not accepted. It's either cash or credit card, and there is sometimes an extra fee for paying with a credit card.

• There is a preview period before the start of the auction during which time you can power up the games and try them out. Most previews start at 8am and end when the auction starts. Most auctions are scheduled to start at 10am, but they almost always start late. Also, games are often still brought in during the preview period, so don't be too discouraged if there are not too many games when you arrive at 8am.

Be sure to check the auction company's schedule for exact times and dates. Some web sites are listed below.

• Bring a very long extension cord to try out the games during the preview period. The places are usually very big, and outlets are often only located on the outer walls of the building. Bring a powerstrip or a multi-tap so that you can plug in multiple games or

share an outlet with others (there are usually only a few outlets). Also recommend putting your name on everything.

• Bring pen and paper to jot notes. There may be a number of a particular game and you want to know which worked and which

didn't. All items being auctioned are numbered, which helps in tracking the items. Sometimes the auctioneer will print a list of all items, so find out if one's available and get a copy. This is also useful for tracking selling prices.

Things to do when you preview a game

1. Check out the cosmetic condition of the item
2. Check the operational condition: buttons and controls work, monitor and picture quality, LED lights on pinball scores, etc.
3. Open the coin doors (if not locked) and take a good look inside. A flashlight is useful for looking around. Check for existance of all necessary parts, manuals, coins, dead mice, water damage, etc.
4. Power up the machine. For video games, look for toggle switches on top, in back, or on the lower sides of the machines. For pinball games, look underneath or on top of the back portion of the game, or on the lower right side for some older machines. Rarely are power switches inside the coin doors.
5. If a game powers up, play the game. To do this, you'll have to coin up (credit) the machine. If the coin doors are not locked,look inside for a credit switch. Otherwise, you can trigger a credit by triggering the coin detecting mechanism. It's difficult to explain here in text, so if you don't know how to do this, ask around. Someone should be able to help. You'll also find out if the coin mechanisms work at all. If you care about the coin mechs, try triggering them by inserting a quarter (which you'll be able to take back if the coin doors are open).
6. You are usually asked not to open the backs of video games. Even if you are not asked, it's best to avoid doing this! It's too easy for the back panel to fall and break the neck of the monitor. With many people moving around the games, mistakes will happen. Also, you may be mistaken for sabotaging the machine and be kicked out of the auction (it's happened). Once you purchase a game, then you can do whatever you want with it.
7. Many 3+ player videogames have oversized control panels which are wider than the body of the game. These can usually be removed for easier transport, and for fitting the game through your door. Make sure you check for this unless you have plenty of room in your vehicle, and the game's destination has a large enough entranceway. If you disconnect the panel, be sure to mark the connectors for easy reassembly.
8. Many games are conversions. A conversion came from the factory as one game, and was later converted into another game by an operator. If you are interested in originals only, make sure you check if the game is a conversion. For example, a Mortal Kombat may have been created from a Centipede cabinet (oh, the pain!). Some games look like nothing more than a combination of spare parts. Go to the KLOV site (see below) for info on video games and pics of originals. Also be aware that if a game is a conversion, it may be a different size than you first thought. So don't forget to measure it.
9. For pinball machines, make sure you check if the back of the machine folds down or disconnects (not all do, or are troublesome to disconnect). Otherwise, you may have a tough time fitting the machine in your vehicle (if the back doesn't come down, it may not even fit into a full-sized van). On most pinballs, the legs can be removed for easier transport. Bring tools to undo any bolts (wrench, screwdrivers, etc.)
10. Check the condition of the plastics on pinball machine playfields, especially the ramps. Broken parts can be very expensive to replace. If the game has an LED dot matrix display, be sure to check this as these are very expensive as well.
11. For dart machines, power up the machine and start a game. Hit dartboard segments to see if they register. Some may be dead, or the whole dartboard may be dead. Some don't play cricket (a very popular dart game), so check this if you want it.
12. For jukeboxes, check if it plays records (45s) or CDs. Check if the 45s or CDs are included. Often, boxes of records or CDs are auctioned separately. Since 45s are no longer made, the jukeboxes that play them tend to be cheaper, but the 45s themselves tend to be more expensive and tougher to find.

• Games are sold "as is". Period!

• If a game does not power up, the auction company may get it working during the auction. Someone often works ahead of the auctioneer

to power up the games, and they sometimes get non-working games running again. This could be a good thing (you wanted a working game) or a bad thing (you were hoping to get the game cheap).

• A game is considered working "all the way" if it powers up, and video games show a picture (even a horrible picture, as most bad

pictures can be corrected with monitor adjustments or cheap fixes).

• Observe the auction numbers on items. If there is a single number for a group of items, they will most likely be auctioned for one bid (but the auctioneer can change the rules, see below).

• When the preview period ends, sometimes you are asked not to power up or open anything. Be courteous to everyone and obey this. Be especially courteous to winning bidders and don't play with games already won.

• During the auction, the auctioneer and the mass of people will move from game to game. This gets uncomfortable with a hugh crowd, and tiring. If you are interested in a particular game, you may want to move ahead of the crowd and stand near the game so you're

close up when it's auctioned and you can hear what the auctioneer is saying. The quality of their PA systems is often poor, and the large rooms have a lot of echo. Bottom line hard to hear a lot of the time.

• LISTEN CAREFULLY to the auctioneer during the auction. They may set up some bidding rules on particular items.

• Often when there are more than one of a particular item in similar condition, the auctioneer will have people bid on the items, but give the winning bidder a CHOICE of the one or more of the items, EACH at the cost of the winning bid.

BE CAREFUL as I've seen people think they are getting all of the items for the winning price, and they bid too high.

Whatever isn't chosen is auctioned again.

If you stop bidding because the bid price gets too high for you, hoping to get the next one at a lower cost, you may lose any chance of getting any of the items if the winner grabs all of the items. I've seen operators win a bid, and then take every one of the items. If you really want one of the items, you may have to be the high bidder the first time; and if you don't take them all, the next bidder may get the items for a lot less. It's a gamble.

Example: if there are 4 boxes of CDs, and the winning bid is $50, the winner may pick one of the boxes for the $50, or choose any 2 for a total of $100, or all for $200.

• Another thing to listen for is the condition of the game as described by the auctioneer (especially useful if you missed it during the preview period, or missed the preview period entirely). I've seen a lady bid high for a Ms. Pac-Man, but she never heard the auctioneer say that it has no monitor or game board, and she couldn't see it due to the crowd of people.

• One thing to accept with a grain of salt (i.e. don't believe) is when an auctioneer says that a game is rare. The word "rare" is so often misused, it's become meaningless. Yes, some items they say are rare are truly rare, but most often not. Just use your own judgement and guidelines.

• The bidding usually goes like this: The auctioneer asks for a starting price (an "opening bid"). If nobody accepts this bid, he

will lower the opening bid until someone accepts his offer. Once the offer is accepted, the auctioneer will ask for the next incremental bid. As the price rises past the limits of the various bidders (going, going, gone), the bidders stop bidding. The last person to make a bid (i.e. the one willing to pay the most for the item in question) "wins" the bid and gets the item. Bidding then proceeds to the next item.

The bid increments vary depending on the average cost of the items. For most games, the increments are usually $25, and may be $12.50 when things get heated. Listen to the auctioneer at the start of the auction. You'll look like a fool if you bid $301 when the price is currently $300.

• Many times the owner of an item will bid on his/her own item in an attempt to reach a higher price. Sometimes the owner will buy

back their own items (this is called a "buyback"). After a while you can learn to spot these people, and if you notice that they are the only ones bidding against you, don't get caught up in "auction fever" and end up spending more than you really wanted. Buyer beware.

• The auctioneer gets a percentage of the selling price, and this is not included in the "sold" price. So, if the auctioneer gets 10%

(the usual), and you win the bid at $100, you'll really have to pay $110 for the item.

It's cheaper to pay cash. There is sometimes a fee for paying with credit card, and it's usually about 5%. As with the auctioneer's take, this is NOT included in the "sold" price. Cash is best, so bring lots of it!

Sales tax will be applied to any items purchased. And no, this is not included in the selling price. If you are attending an auction in a different state than your home, be sure to ask the auction company for the local state tax percentage. It's best to bring a calculator.

Always check with the auction company for full details.

• After winning an item, you can pay for it and haul it away at

any time during the auction. The most you will have to wait is for the auctioneers to get the selling information input into their computer systems. So, maybe give them at least a half-hour before you wait in line to pay.

• Purchased items have to be out of the building by a certain

time. Make sure you ask for this time. When bidding, be sure to keep this in mind so that you give yourself enough time to get your items out. There may be only one large exit, and other people's vehicles may be pulled up to it, meaning that you have to wait your turn to get out. Don't be caught short on time. As noted above, bring a friend to help.

• Bring items to secure any games in your vehicle (rope, tie downs,

etc.) If your vehicle is uncovered, bring enough tarps to protect your games from the weather.

When loading videogames and pinball machines on an uncovered vehicle, be sure to not face the front of the machines forward. The pressure of the wind when moving at highway speeds may break the glass.

Make sure the items are loaded and secured so that they will not move at all during transport. Otherwise they will get banged up or broken when you accelerate and brake the vehicle.

 * When transporting a pinball machine, it's probably best to not
 remove the backglass (the glass with the artwork which faces you and
 has the scores) or topglass (the glass covering the playfield). It's
 too easy to drop them. If you do remove either, avoid placing them
 flat on a hard surface; stand them up. If they break, they usually
 shatter into a million pieces.

 If the back of the machine folds down onto the body of the pinball
 machine, place cardboard or a blanket within the fold to keep the
 parts from touching, and to cushion them.

 I am not too experienced with moving pinball machines, so make sure
 you ask an experienced person about this before doing anything.
 I have seen a person drop a backglass on the floor at an auction,
 and they can be extremely difficult to replace as parts are no
 longer being made.  As with everything, be careful!

Most dart machines can be separated into two pieces (top and bottom).

 Check for this. If you end up disassembling a dart machine, be very
 careful when doing this as the top can easily tip off and crash
 to the floor. Also note all connections so it will be easier to
 reconnect later.

• For your benefit and the benefit of other collectors out there,

it's very helpful to take pictures and keep track of prices and then post this information on the Internet. Digital cameras are especially useful for this. If you meet other collectors at the auction, divide up the task.

• Anyone can bring items to the auction to sell. If you have items

you wish to auction, contact the auction company for details.

• Don't forget your money (preferably cash) and proper

transportation! See the end of this document for a list of items to bring.

Most arcade auctions are run by US Amusements or Super Auctions. Their web sites are:

http://www.usamusements.com http://www.superauctions.com

Information on most arcade games can be found at the Killer List of Video Games (KLOV). It's web site is:

http://www.klov.com

The official FAQ for buying at an auction can be found here:

http://www.spies.com/arcade/info/index.html

Most video games manufactured since the late 80s (I think) are JAMMA games. The JAMMA association defined a standard for the pinouts of a game's game board which connect to the game controllers, monitor, coin mechs, and power supplies. Because of this, JAMMA boards are interchangable. You can switch games simply by plugging in a different board, as long as your control panel has the necessary controller items (e.g. if you control panel has 1 joystick and 3 buttons per player, you won't be able to play Mortal Kombat since that requires 5 buttons per player), and the monitor is the correct orientation (horizontal vs. vertical). The KLOV indicates JAMMA games.

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Here's a list of items to bring to an arcade auction. Pick and choose as needed.

• Money (cash is best)
• Proper transportation
• Toll money
• Driving directions to auction location
• Road map
• Long (e.g. 100') extension cord
• Multi-tap or powerstrip
• Portable chair (often there isn't anywhere to sit)
• Tape measure
• Calculator (hmmm, $125 + 10% + 3% + 8% .....)
• Flashlight
• Tools (phillips & spade screwdrivers, socket set, pliers, etc.)
• Pen
• Paper
• Clipboard
• Fine point permanent marker (to mark items during disassembly)
• Tarps
• Moving blankets
• Duct tape
• Long rope
• Knife
• Tie downs/Bungee cords
• Dolly and straps
• Cellulin wrap
• Lunch / pop / water
• List of games indicating which are JAMMA
• Walkie-talkies and extra batteries (to keep in touch with others

 if it's a big place, or if traveling in multiple vehicles)

• Handi-wipes (bathrooms don't always have soap)
• Camera (to take pics for posting on the internet)